First John needed to make a piece to reinforce an area just behind the seat where the rear suspension attaches. We started with a cardboard template to get us close. We, John mostly, then cut out the piece and started trimming and hammering to fit. Just making this piece took hours, but once welded in place it will be solid. It will eventually be covered by carpet.
Jan 17 - I bought the steel we need during the week. John borrowed a reciprocating saw/sawzall to help with the cutting. Our main task is the rusty rail. I think the pictures make it pretty obvious why we need to fix this.
We started cutting and realized we need a vice. John actually realized this months ago, but I haven't bought one. So, I went to Harbor Freight while John stayed and did some cutting. I used the gift card from Ben and Lydia to pick up a vice and some metal files. I also went to Home Depot for some lag bolts to attach the vice to my work table. We screwed some extra wood to the bottom of the table and mounted the vice. It will come in handy with cutting and bending metal pieces.
When I returned with the supplies, John had already cut the rusty bottom out of the frame rail. Below is a before and after of the same section.
The challenge will be getting the metal strip to fit the bottom. The width is about right for most of the length, but the rail curves up and slightly in at the front. We cut and bent the piece as much as possible. There is a lot of holding it in place, checking the fit, making small cuts/grinds, and repeating. I think in the end we have a piece that will work. Once welding begins we can hammer the piece into place a bit too. We also cut and shaped the L-shaped rails which will fit inside the frame. We may be ready to begin welding next week.
We spent the end of the day trying to clean up the side rail on the driver's side. We will clean it, paint some rust inhibitor, and weld a new thin strip of metal on top. That too will be covered with carpet in the end, so solid structure is the goal - aesthetics are secondary.
John also worked on the console. Sadly, the radio was beyond our talents to save. Sorry, Noogit, but this is where it ends for the radio.
Jan 18 - I wandered into the garage to tinker a little before watching the NFL playoff games. I am watching them now while I write. I wanted to remove the master cylinders for the brakes and the clutch and the bracket that holds them. There were three hydraulic lines to remove first. The first two (brakes) on the left were no problem. The third (clutch, pictured on the right) on the right was a different story. There is very limited access, so I could hardly get a wrench on it. I had to turn it a little, spin the wrench around, and turn a little more. Each one of those got me one third of a rotation. It did eventually come off.The eight bolts that hold the whole thing in place came out relatively easily. I also had to remove the tops of the pedals from the push rods. (I often wonder as I write if I am using the correct terminology and imagine John cringing when I don't.) I removed the bolt holding the top of the pedals together so I could get the pedals out. I removed the whole assembly and took the master cylinders off the bracket on the work table. Pictures below show the before and after removal. The hole in the second picture is where the pedals pass through.
Fortunately the metal underneath is dirty but in good shape. No repair needed there. I cleaned up the removed parts using the wire wheel and put a quick coat of paint on the bracket.
I also removed the windshield wipers and cleaned them. The black paint on them came off easily. It is slow going with the rust and new metal, but enjoyable. I still plan/hope to drive her this summer. That seems realistic at this point.
I believe the correct term is "dinkin flicka". Goodbye radio.
ReplyDeleteNice work! That's a shame about the radio. It looks like from the picture of John that there was a spark plug attached to it? If so, that was probably the problem. Everyone knows the spark plugs should be attached to the seat warmers.
ReplyDeleteWhy do you need a solid bottom to the u-shaped supports? Why not weld some little cross-brackets every 8-10 inches or so. That would allow any water that gets in there to drain out.
You seem to be doing a lot of welding. I hope you guys are wearing goggles.